In the traditional camera, the lens was king. If the lens delivered a good image, exactly that image would be recorded on the film. As the original image size was restricted to the film size (35mm having get to be the standard), you'll then must enlarge it to have any sized print. In the event the original was whatsoever blurred this is exaggerated by the enlarging process.
The more light the lens let in, the 'quicker' it could take an image - hence expensive traditional cameras had wide lenses.
What electronic cameras have done is to downgrade the significance of the lens. Computer programs can provide you with the missing light, and sharpen the image. What you need instead is memory. Single megapixel image enlarged to 6x4, is barely acceptable. Above that size, this is a waste of print, but, funnily enough, can be viewed at larger sizes on a computer screen with little loss of quality. A 4 megapixel image could be enlarged to A4.
So, listed here are the rules. You will see that, as with most electronic purchases, it is vital to analyse what you want to do with the digital camera. For example I saw a neighbour's new system with which she was so pleased, but I used to be not impressed. There have been so many things 'wrong' from it, in fact, her 'camera' was the primary motivation for scripting this article. The fast answer is: If you do exactly the opposite to everything in this article, the end result would be you acquiring the camera she did - designed to be as small as possible, so, although expensive, it had not enough power, too little memory, an inadequate lens, and fiddly to use.
If you want to purchase the right system to suit your needs; Don't just head out thinking the sales assistants can assist you, they may well have pleasant and helpful manners, but many won't know much about anything, seek information first noting these pointers:
1 Pixels:
- If all you need to do is to post images on the net, the pixel count diminishes important, 3 megapixels is perfect.
- If you want to print images to 6x4 or 8x10, however, choose 4 megapixels no less than.
- When you have a computer and so are prepared to use photo editing, pay extra for further pixels, and don't bother with the features that replicate the computers capability to manipulate your photos.
- As it were rely on printing your images direct from the camera, make sure it comes down from a manufacturer who links to some good lens maker (eg Kodak, Canon, Olympus, etc.).
2 Export/Printing:
Next, how do you get your pictures out. There's 2 ways - taking the memory out from the camera, and slotting it in to a print device, (the home printer, card reader or a machine in a photo printers), or using a cable.
If you're comfortable with computers, either way is straight forward. If you want to be able to do that without thinking, make sure your camera comes with a removable memory (and upgrade this for the largest size you are able to,) and buy one having a docking system.
It is worth noting that many people don't have computers, they simply take their storage media to Tesco or any up-to-date photo processing unit and get their photos printed because they always have!
3 Power:
- Electronic cameras use batteries. The more mechanical parts you have, the faster the battery is used. Optical zoom is really a mechanical process, and also the camera will flex its muscles each time you turn it on, so there's constant battery drain. Avoid it, until you need the zoom (see below). If you do, consider a non motorised zoom (ie manual or digital).
- Zoom: Powered zoom adversely impacts battery time, because of the motors, this mostly is really because of the "power save" mode running the motors each time the system is powered down.
Now I realise that, from a technical perspective, I've already covered the issue of power drain, but I believed it was such an interesting point that it was worth mentioning twice.
- Like wise with flash. Be certain your camera just uses flash when you wish it, not merely automatically, without control.
- A docking station based camera will make sure it is constantly powered up, so, when you have to have zoom, select this option too.
4 Capturing:
- Optical zoom. The plus is that this can compensate for lesser pixels - by permitting you closer to the target, you prevent the need for some enlargement. However, having a very good lens and high pixel count, you can do this by photo editing instead. The down-side of optical zoom, independent of the power drain mentioned previously, is that it exaggerates camera shake - see below. Only spend the extra on optical zoom, therefore, in case you are relying on alternative party printing.
- Digital zoom. This is a useful support, and not to be disrespected. All it will, however, is exactly what you can do with photo editing software. Again, it is of more use for the user who doesn't want to be bothered with this, and will depend on third party printing.
- Movie facility. This is very memory intensive, so ought to be avoided by anyone who doesn't plan to use it, or does not have any access to electronic storage, or display.
- Good Photos: When you have no flash otherwise you have turned it well, the system will increase the exposure time, as well as the risk of hand shake affecting the style. Optical zoom creates a similar problem, by extending the lens forward of the camera body hand shae is exaggerated.I t is possible to get extra technology to follow and make amends for movement, but this is only worth the money if you are considering a lot of action and instant photos; for everyone else you may get the same effect when you are aware of the problem and using your tripod!
- Convenience. For most purposes the opportunity to point and shoot is crucial. Two things can get in your way.
Firstly; All digital cameras have to 'think' before they take a picture. That thinking time can be as much as a second. Taking pictures of live action is impossible with that sort of delay. Spending the excess on a camera with near instantaneous re-action, if you can find one, is essential if action photography is what you want to do.
Secondly; You don't want to have to do a lot more than press the button, when you can avoid it. Having a lot of options, and being necessary to select one before you do this means many wasted photo opportunities.
5 Buying the camera:
When possible try not to buy sight unseen before parting along with your money, you ought to be able to "play" with a demonstration model, failing that you should consider taking your business elsewhere! In the event that is not possible, consider asking friends or neighbours that have similar (or perhaps the one you are thinking about) and ask to experience with it.
This is especially important if your buying your first system, but always understand it, take photos by using it and try out as numerous of the features as is possible. Most retailers will happily allow you to do this, and a lot even provide a computer. I know my neighbour assumed the camera she bought was the size of the image on the box, and was surprised to learn how small it absolutely was when she got it home.
May very well not know what you may anticipate, undoubtedly you will end up inundated with more jargon than you know what to do with. You will probably find what appears to be the perfect system but, after using the buttons, it's also possible to find that the controls are confusing or that the seemingly innocuous part of the design may present problems, an illustration of this this would be the position of the trypod mount, sometimes that is added as an after thought, thus making the machine unbalanced.
As with all the ergonomic issues, this really is all highly subjective, so you must just rely on better judgment regarding the qualities from the unit, but know that size does matter, the box is going to be deceptively big as well as the photo won't help much. This will be significant because the controls, screen as well as the working parts are susceptible to the systems size, so the smaller the unit is, the more difficult it will be to use as well as the battery will probably suffer too!
Like all small gadgets it is important to budget yourself when purchasing a digital camera, it is all too easy to think, 'well usually the one I wanted initially is �100, however for �150 I can get one with xyz'. This is the way the retailer constitutes a lot of his profit, so don't supply him with the satisfaction of letting him win so easily with the impulse buy, this invalidates all of your research, and you'll end up investing in features you didn't want and definately will never use, because it's his job to produce a sale, and you also only had his version of the reasons you 'need' the xyz.
6 Technical issues in more detail:
Logic alone will not help you purchase a good system, the larger end systems and today some cheaper units include apparently useful features, for example night scene mode, to help take photos in low-lit conditions "out from the box".
However this is often only a preset configuration with the exposure some time and other sensitivity options (referred to as ISO settings) that help increase sensitivity to light, this all has a secondary effect, which or even accounted for, can cause problems for example making your photos grainy of course, if you don't use a tripod, the longer exposure time is likely to make them unfocused as well. The same goes for systems that won't include a flash.
With all the plethora of digital camera choices available a few wide range of resolutions; these is measured and advertised in megapixels, ie the number of pixels that the camera has to take a graphic with. It is extremely easy to get caught up in the megapixel race, 4 mega-pixels (4 million pixels) is a good example for you to print 8"x10" pictures; 3 mega-pixels is perfect for email and web sites; note the higher the resolution, the greater space on your own memory card will be taken up.
However, don't count on pixel counting, because it is not always correct that if a system contains more megapixels, it has to take better and clearer images than other cameras! Sometimes advertised digital cameras pixel count could be deceiving.
This results from confusion over how photosensitive elements work, the standard arrangement is the fact that each sensor either detects red, blue, or green per pixel, however, there are some systems, which use arrays of sensors, with three sensors for each and every pixel and some marketing people (mistakenly) advertise this type of system as being say 6 megapixels ie 2 multiplied by 3 is approximately 6, although resulting resolution of a photo will only be 2 megapixels). You will need to read the terms and conditions on the box.
If appropriate for your proposed use and skills, consider additional features besides just its megapixels. How quickly or slow it is possible to set the shutter speed can determine the kind of sports and night photography it is possible to take. Can it support a manual white-balance control to assist photography in homes, offices, and museums? Is there pre-programmed modes to aid in difficult lighting situations?
Aperture Size determines precisely how much light is captured, having more light allows you take better pictures in a number of lighting condition, and reduces your dependance about the flash, as a result can increase the battery life, reduce effects like Red eye as well as the possibility of motion problems as a result of need for longer exposure times.
A significant consideration should be how you want to get your photos onto your computer, some systems have very slow and badly designed data connections making use of your serial or printer port.
Some manufacturers have put more hours and effort into this than others, so make sure you check how this is done; note that most good systems will use a USB interface and will be compatible with the device drivers and transport services given by Windows and Mackintosh. However, some systems require the manufacturers proprietary software to become installed, that will not be available on any other computer.
Kodak have an exceptional system called Easy Share which includes a system dock that delivers both power and data transfer in a single unit.
Many systems include the manufacturers single use batteries but a whole lot also support various rechargeable "battery packs", which are configured being a set of 2 or 4 AA batteries, so if you currently use rechargeable batteries, locate a system that supports the same types of batteries.
Also consider getting extra rechargeable batteries for prolonged photo-shoots and never buy a system with a sealed battery, this may severally restrict its use, where if they run flat, you can not replace the battery, only charge it again, so when it dies, as rechargeable batteries in cheap system often do, you might be evan more restricted!
The digital camera will "come with" adequate media to really make it work, while still being cost effective; don't expect the digital camera to come with plenty media to take care of your photography needs and never buy one that has no external capacity, ie it must allow you to upgrade the memory. Many "fun" but nonetheless expansive systems have say 8 megabytes of of storage space and that's it, no accessible media card per se; these are sealed systems, enough for 6 high quality photos or say 25 seconds of movie! The only way to take more photos is always to delete them straight from the system or go home a download to your computer. You'll need at least 24Mb of memory to take the equivalent of just 1 roll of film of equivalent quality (at 4 megapixels). If you are taking it on vacation, and can't download images, you need a multiple of this.
Nowadays, most digital cameras, come with a 16 or 32 MB internal capacity or will only be packaged having a 16 or 32 MB card if it has no internal capacity; you may tend not to find both. This used to be enough memory for a couple dozen pictures, high megapixel photos in fine, very fine, or raw detail can consume that memory in just a couple of photos.
Prepare to invest money on one or more extra media card. The kind of storage media is also a point of contention: Memory price is steadily reducing, but cards are still not cheap. You don't want to 'throw away' your media investment when upgrading.
You will find currently many media standards available for cameras, for instance CompactFlash, SecureMedia, etc. If you're upgrading than this is an easy choice, you'd purchase a camera that's comparable together with your old system unless a different media offers other features that far outweigh that relating to your old camera's media type.
If you are buying for the first time but don't have other devices for example PDAs then use a good shop around for systems that accept several media types, for example CompactFlash and MicroDrives, thus giving you more choice next time you upgrade.
However all cellular devices from cameras to This stuff accept Secure Digital (SD) cards, including digital camera models, MP3 players, PDAs, cellular phones, camcorders, and much more. SD is fast-becoming the new standard due to its high quality, so you don't have to worry about lost or missing data. With the small size and solid-state design from the SD Cards, they're perfect for mobile applications and users.
7 Summary:
Having fixed your allowance, make sure you are spending it on pixels and lens. Treat the rest as a bonus.
Make sure it has (they are matters of design not cost):
Good expandable storage
Simple buttons
Is a comfortable size
Uses standard software
Pay extra for, should you really need it:
Zoom
Screen
Docking system
Reaction speed
Variable exposure control